‘Every Cook Ought to Train At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Ranking of London’s Top Dining Destinations.

Whenever curating a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their small place securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has kept much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this culinary triumph.

Willie Jimenez
Willie Jimenez

Urban journalist and city enthusiast with a passion for uncovering stories that shape modern metropolitan life.